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Step Eleven: Separate the two puzzle pieces where they overlap. Set aside the piece that you drilled straight through. Hammer your threaded inserts into the piece that you didn't drill all the way through. They need to be flush with your wood. 
Step Twelve: Place the two puzzle pieces back together as they were in Step Ten and screw the two pieces together with your four 1/4" x 20 x 1 1/4" flat head screws. This will bolt your two puzzle pieces together in the center. You should be able to unscrew these, place your two table pieces into a long table shape, and bolt them together again through the same screw holes as long as your measurements were centered. 
Step Thirteen: With your tabletop still upside down, measure 1 1/2" in from each corner on both short ends and mark where your screw holes will be for those four hairpin legs. 
Step Fourteen: For a stable table, you'll need two hairpin legs attached to the area where the pieces overlap. For this design to look nice and be stable in both a corner position and a long position, I suggest placing your last two hairpin legs centered over the square you drew so that they are about 1/2" away from the square and facing each other. Mark your holes, pre-drill about 3/4" deep, place your legs in the appropriate places, and then screw them in. 
The final steps include sanding your table down on the tops and edges with an orbital sander or by hand using two different grades of sandpaper. Then wipe the table with a damp cloth and apply your stain, paint, or polyurethane following manufacturer's directions. I chose a poly because I love the look of natural blonde wood, but you may prefer a darker stain or even a painted tabletop. Just be sure you stain or paint all of the edges when they are not bolted together because if you transform them, different edges will be showing. 
Once you are ready to transform your desk from one shape to another, clear your desk top, unscrew the four center bolts, reposition your two ends so that the holes align again, and screw it back together. It allows for a beautiful desktop space by keeping it's lovely lines in either position.
Step Six: Measure in 6" x 6" from each corner of your 2' x 3' and pre-drill a hole that drills into the 2' x 5' plywood beneath it but doesn't go through it. You don't want holes coming through your desktop! You can measure about 1 1/4" from the bottom of your drill bit and mark that spot with tape so that you don't press to far. Repeat this process of measuring and pre-drilling holes in all four corners of your top 2' x 5' cut of wood (which is the bottom of your table on that side), and then make a mark in the center and pre-drill a hole there as well.
Step Seven: Use a screwdriver or the appropriate bit to screw five of your #6 x 1 1/4" screws into these holes. This will secure the two pieces of wood together. If any glue squeezes out between the two pieces, quickly wipe it off with a wet paper towel or sand it off later. Repeat the process with the two other pieces of wood. You will likely have to flip them over at some point in this process to get to the bottom sides where you'll screw them together. Just be sure you keep the blonde sides of the wood on the unscrewed side of both pieces. 
Step Eight: Fit the two pieces together so that they overlap at a right angle. They should both be upside down at this point. Measure out a perfect square so that it's centered where the two pieces overlap. It needs to be perfectly centered, so measure twice (or three times). Step Nine: Just for visual's sake, I've drawn where the square needs to be positioned when you remove the two puzzle pieces so you can see how you'll be drilling through the top one and halfway into the bottom one. 
Step Ten: Prep your drill with the 5/16" drill bit and mark it with tape so that you only drill down about 1 1/4". With your two puzzle pieces still overlapping, pre-drill a hole in each corner of your square. Wiggle it around a bit as you drill out of it to give yourself a slightly larger hole. This will help your threaded inserts to go in but still fit snugly.
Step One: This step is merely to double check your angles are all nearly perfect before gluing in place. Place one piece of 2' x 5' on the floor. It doesn't matter which side is up since this will be the bottom piece and it will not show. Then place a 2' x 3' piece of wood on top of it so that three of the edges are flush. Be sure you have the blonde side up. 
Step Two: Place your second 2' x 3' cut of wood down so that it creates a right angle with the 2' x 5' cut of wood from Step One. This bottom piece will not show so it doesn't matter which side is up. 
Step Three: Place the second 2' x 5' piece of wood on top of the piece from Step Three. Be sure the blonde side is right side up. Check to see that all edges are flush with each other and fit tightly together where they overlap. 
Step Four: Repeat a similar process with all of your pieces but instead of placing them at a right angle, overlap them so that they form a long 2' x 8' desktop. Again, you are merely checking to make sure all of your angles are straight and right so that there are no gaps. If there should be one piece that is shorter than the other, fit things together so that there are no gaps where everything overlaps and just sand down or cut off the overlap on the outer edge.
Step Five: Pull your separate puzzle pieces apart. Place Gorilla glue intermittently around the space where your 2' x 3' cut of wood will rest on top of your 2' x 5' cut of wood. Gently place your 2' x 3' cut of wood on top of your 2' x 5' cut and make sure your three edges are flush. You can clamp these together if you have clamps available, but you can also skip that and move quickly to the next step.
Transformable Hairpin Leg Desktop DIY

This transformable desk is perfect because it is made of two pieces of plywood on each side that overlap like a perfect puzzle piece in the middle. You can have a corner workspace one day and an extra long workspace the next. Thanks to the beauty of powder coated hairpin legs, my new desktop space looks like a million bucks and retains that light, airy feel needed in such a small room. 
Supplies:
-one 3/4" x 4' x 8' sheet of Purebond plywood. This specific plywood is thick enough for a beautiful desktop but is also formaldehyde free, so you can breathe easy. You'll want to get this cut in half lengthwise so that you get two 2' x 8' lengths. Then cut each of those lengths at the 5' mark so that you end up with two 2' x 3' cuts and two 2' x 5' cuts as shown above. -six 28" powder coated hairpin legs
-24 #6 x 3/4" flathead screws
-10 #6 x 1 1/4" flathead screws
-four 1/4" 20 x 13mm threaded insert nuts
-four 1/4" 20 x 1 1/4" flathead machine screws -1 qt. Varathane Triple Thick Polyurethane in semi-gloss or preferred sealer
-Gorilla wood glue
-3" natural bristle brush
-power drill
-5/16" drill bit -1/8" drill bit
-orbital sander (optional)
-80 grit sandpaper
-120 grit sandpaper
-clamps (optional)
-hammer
-2 to 4 clamps (optional)
-carpenter's square ruler
-pen 
Here's a visual on the threaded insert nuts that you'll need. They allow the two pieces to be screwed together and unscrewed a number of times without stripping the wood. Shout out to Dustin Stewart for introducing me to these little workhorses.

Your one sheet of 3/4" x 4' x 8' Purebond plywood should already have been cut at the lumber store so that you end up with two 2' x 3' pieces and two 2' x 5' pieces. This plywood has a birch veneer (blonde), but you can see the other side has a reddish finish. Pay attention to the sides you want to use as you are glueing and screwing all of your pieces together for consistency's sake.
DIY HANGING HALF FRAME
Framing large images can often be very pricey, but this tutorial certainly won’t break the bank. —Teri @ The Lovely Drawer

Materials
-Print / photograph in your chosen size
-2 pieces of lightweight wooden strips (e.g. Balsa wood)
-Wood stain and cloth
-Natural rope
-2 eye screws large enough to fit the rope through
-56g/2oz. polymer clay block
-Stapler / staple gun
-All purpose glue
-Scissors
-Ruler
-Pencil
-X-acto knife

Steps
1. Follow the recommended temperature to preheat your oven for the polymer clay. Use the X-acto knife to cut two even blocks of clay. Roll these in the palm of your hand until round and smooth. Use a pencil to make a hole all the way through. You can then use something wider to make the hole larger until your rope fits through the middle. Place on a baking tray and bake for the recommended time.

2. While the clay is baking, use a cloth to rub the stain into the wood, giving a richer, deeper tone. It’s a good idea to put some old sheets down or do this outside so as not to ruin a home surface. Leave the wood to dry completely.

3. Take one of the wood strips and measure about an inch in from either end and mark with a pencil.

4. Then twist both eye screws into these points, until fully in and secure.

5. Then lay the top of your print facedown over what will be the top wooden strip (with the eye screws in). This will be the back of the picture. Align the paper carefully so that it’s placed centrally and straight. Then staple either end and go along the wooden strip, stapling to secure. I used an ordinary stapler opened up for this, as the wood was so soft, but harder woods may require a staple gun. Do the same with the bottom of the print to attach to the other wooden strip. For extra hold you could use the all purpose glue to fix the print to the wood before stapling.

6. Thread both of your clay beads onto the rope and thread a rope end through one of the eye screws. Tie a tight single knot and then do the same on the other side. Trim the excess and use the all purpose glue to seal the raw edges. This will stop them from fraying and the knot from untying.

Now, all that’s left is to hang your brand new wall art
Once your line is scored, scoot the mirror to the edge of the table and line up the scored line with the edge. In one swift motion, push down on the piece you are breaking off and it will snap at the scored line leaving a clean break between the two. It's a bit scary to actually go through with the breaking part because your brain is convinced that the mirror will shatter as soon as you press down. But once you do go through with it, the mirror only makes a tiny snapping sound and you feel a bit silly for building it up so much in your mind.
You'll want to wear gloves and eye protection for this step just to be extra careful. 
Once your four sides are snapped and you have a square, measure, mark, score, and snap off the corners of the square to get your final octagon shape. Clean the lines off the mirror with glass cleaner.

Now that we have our shape, let's create our gem lines! Cover the whole front of your mirror with contact paper. Use the handy dandy line making and cutting guide that Josh made for you (second image) to draw and cut the lines of your gem with your marker and then X-Acto knife. It looks complicated, but just draw and then cut all the lines in the order he has shown. It's a lot easier than you'd think. You can make your lines as thick or as thin as you want depending on the overall size of your mirror, but ours are about 1/4" thick. So we cut 1/8" on either side of the lines. Peel off all the lines to expose the mirror underneath.

Before painting, use a fine grade sandpaper to lightly sand the edges of your mirror in case there are any sharp spots.

Spray your mirror with a few coats of  gold spray paint and top it off with a clear coat spray. Use the X-Acto knife to lift up the corners of your contact paper shapes and peel off each piece. Once all the contact paper has been removed, you're done

Credits // Author: Laura Gummerman and Josh Rhodes, Photography: Laura Gummerman and Janae Hardy. Photos edited with Stella from The Signature Collection.
Gem Mirror DIY (+ Easy Glass Cutting Technique!)
A Message from The Spice Hunter March 04, 2015

Supplies:
-glass cutter tool*
-mirror (we used this one)
-metal ruler + marker
-gloves and safety glasses
gem line drawing and cutting guide (right click to download)
-fine grade sandpaper
-contact paper
-X-Acto knife
-gold spray paint
-clear spray paint
*Note: Most of these glass cutter tools come with an area in the top where you can put oil that runs down to the blade, but you don't really need the oil to score the glass. The oil helps keep the blade sharp longer, but you can still cut just the same without it.

To make your octagon gem shape, first you'll want to cut your mirror into a square. Use a metal ruler and marker to measure out and draw a square the size of your desired finished width onto the mirror (don't worry about the marker, glass cleaner will take it right off). Position your glass cutting tool on your line and place your metal ruler up against the cutting wheel. Use your glass cutter tool to score a line into the mirror that runs the entire length of the mirror (make sure to keep your tool right up against the ruler as you score). You want to firmly score the line in one single pass, so don't go over your line again once you've scored it. You are basically cutting off the entire chunk of mirror that is to the left (or right) of your marked square line. It basically feels the same as cutting with an X-Acto knife. And if you worried it will make a "nails on a chalkboard" sound as you score the glass, don't worry. It hardly makes any noise at all.
DIY Brass Swing Lamp Tutorial
HelloLidy
This DIY requires some knowledge in electrical and specialized tools, so if you are unfamiliar with either of these, be sure to ask a friend (or husband) to give you a hand. 
Complete part list found at grandbrass.com (except part #4, which can be found at a local hardware store):
1. PIBR24-0x4
2. PIBP18
3. BUEFG30
4. Bracket from a hardware store
5. SO10045C
6. PIBR06-0x4
7. NECL2
8. NE440
9. NE474
10. SV230
11. WITWISTBL (8 feet)
12. SWEUROBL
13. PL3123B
14. CU578

Step 1: Start by bending part #1 and part #2 at 45 degrees a couple inches from one end of each. To do this, you will need a tube bender. You can use bending springs inside the tube to keep their round shape or fill them with water and freeze them (the same method used for making trumpets). Step 2: Part #4 was a bracket I found at a hardware store. It is intended as a bracket for barring doors with a 2X4. This part needs to have 1/2″ holes drilled on each end for the 1/4 IPS pipe (part # 6) to go through. I spray painted mine black.

Step 3: Wire one end of the twisted cord (part # 11) to the porcelain socket (part
#5), then start threading the other end of the cord through following parts in this order: 14, 10, 2, 7, 1, 9, and 6. Next, screw all the fittings together and extend the telescoping arm (part #2) all the way out so you know how far to position the switch (part # 12). Step 4: Slide the bottom end of the lamp (part #6) through the mounting bracket (part #4) and screw in the bottom brass coupler (part #8). Now decide where you want your switch to be and wire it according to the diagram. 
Step 5: Wire the remaining end of the cord to the plug (part #13), screw in the light bulb,  and you”re ready to mount it. You may need to unscrew the bottom brass coupling (part #8) and slide the lamp out of the bracket to maneuver a screwdriver around.

Good luck!

Credits: hellolidy.con
3 ways to make cinder block furniture (that doesn't look terrible)

Cinder block furniture is something we tend to associate with college apartments, along with inflatable furniture and futons and cheap reproductions of Van Gogh's The Starry Night. But cinder blocks have two chief advantages over other building materials: 1. they're cheap, and 2. they're really cheap. Plus, you don't really need to nail them or drill them or any other such thing, because they're so heavy they'll stay in place all on their own. And the best news of all is that cinder block furniture doesn't have to look terrible. Really. Check out these three examples: 
Credit
First photo: Dwell
Second photo: New Zealand Design Blog
Third photo: Emma Dime
Apartmenttherapy.com
diy hanging planters

supplies
adapted from 3191Q
1/8 inch thick cotton rope
pearl cotton embroidery floss in various colors
metal ring, pulley or closed hook
potted plant

the steps
*These steps are to create a holder that hangs approximately three feet and holds a small potted plant

1. Cut four lengths of rope eight feet long. Thread through ring so that the rope doubles over at midpoint. There will be eight pieces of rope hanging down.

2. Grasp the rope tightly and tie with a length of floss close to the ring. Continue to wrap the floss tightly and firmly around the rope. Tie off floss at desired length and switch colors, covering the ends of the previous color with new floss. Continue in this manner until you have reached total length desired and then trim the ends.

3. Hang the ring from a hook and measure down 24 inches. Grasp two lengths of rope and tie using a grouped overhand knot. Repeat three more times with remaining six lengths of rope, taking care that the knots are even with each other.

4. Take two sets of knots and tie one piece of rope from each together about 6 inches down. Work your way around tying the remaining length of rope to one from the adjacent knot. Gather all the lengths of rope together about 3 inches from the last knots tie and wrap with floss as you did at the top. Trim rope ends to desired length.

5. Place pot in the holder and spread out rope so that it is held securely. The first group of knots should be above the pot and the second group should be at the mid point of the pot. You can always adjust the level of the knots to suit the size of the pot you are using.

Hang from a hook and enjoy!

Posted by Gina
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